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Gene Mollica is a photographer who specializes in book covers He has contracted Time Traveler Outfitters for creation of the costumes gmollica ...

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Home Inside the Workroom Project Tutorials
Creating a Medieval Mystique III
This installment is being delayed by the production of new summer designs...please excuse our delay. We will have this installment prepared over the next couple of weeks after the launch of the new products. Thank you for your patience.
 
Creating a Medieval Mystique II

Installment #2 – Cutting your garment

If you are following your pattern as shown (recommended for those who are still learning to sew) cut the pieces of your pattern into their individual pieces. If you are altering your pattern and want to use it later or if you are using a multi size pattern, trace the size you need onto tracing paper (you can order a roll at http://www.clotilde.com/detail.html?prod_id=126&criteria=tracing+paper). This is the time to make any anticipated alterations to your pattern so that it matches your design. If you are unsure about the sizing, it might be best to first cut your pattern in an inexpensive muslin and baste the pieces together and alter the pattern to fit. Allow the extra time to gently cut the seam threads to disassemble the basting and iron your pattern pieces so they’ll lie flat on the fabric.

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Next you’ll layout your length of fabric and your finished pattern pieces. Pay attention to the grain of the fabric. If you are limited in the amount of available fabric then you’ll line up the straight grain of the pattern with the lengthwise grain of your fabric. If you are more concerned with drape and movement then you might try lining up the straight grain of the pattern on the 45° diagonal of your fabric. This will create more flowing movement and clinging drape of the garment. When you’ve positioned your pattern on the fabric and pinned it down, make sure the pattern pieces are all cut in the same direction so the appearance is uniform all around the dress. With this type of dress, the skirt will most likely be to wide too cut the opposing pieces (Right side and Left side front or back) at one time; so you’ll need to turn the pattern piece over before pinning it to cut the opposing piece.

Once you’ve cut all your pieces, it’s imperative to stay organized so you don’t lose track of what the pieces are and where they go. Lay out the Sleeve pieces, your Dress Back then your Side Back, then your Side Front and finally, your Dress Front. If your design has a back opening as in a Bilaut, then start with the Back Pieces…If you have a front opening as in a Coathardie, then start with the Front pieces. My design is a back opening so I will start with the back pieces.
 
Creating a Medieval Mystique

Installment #1 - Creating a plan…or concept for your character.

Surround yourself in a character when dressing for the Medieval Period and don't be too concerned with whether or not your hand stitching has 13 stitches per inch. No one is going to pull up the hem of your dress at a gathering and count the stitches or evaluate their uniformity. We have enough stress in our lives already…let’s not create it for ourselves. There is however something to be said for the satisfaction in knowing you’ve crafted a high quality garment that you love wearing and that is our goal for this project.

Think about the events you’ll be wearing it to. If it’s an outdoor event where you’ll be in the grass or on a campsite, make sure the fabric isn’t too delicate and can be washed. If it’s a dress for a fancy occasion then think about the drama you want to create for your entrance. Also, take into consideration your character…wench or lady? Demon or Angel?

For the purposes of this demonstration…we are going to create a gown for a Lady Demon that will be durable for an outdoor fancy event at a campsite, just for fun. You can use velvet or an upholstery jacquard for a rich but durable gown and then trim it with some very dramatic gimps, jewels and metallics. I’m thinking that for this to be a really valuable resource, we need to show you how rich beautiful things can be made for a small amount of money. I’ll show you how things readily available can be worked into something truly extraordinary.

Visualize what comes to mind when you say the word demon; think of a name for your demon or villain and ponder how saying the name makes you feel. Then think about what that feeling will look like in your mind and draw out those details (a great design is always realized in the details). If you’re not an artist, look for pictures that show the types of detail that you want to use in your project. Make a folder or scrapbook for these ideas. Choose a pattern that is a similar shape to your design and appropriate for your skill level (if you're starting your first project I'd recommend McCalls M5499). The seaming is minimal so we can concentrate on the quality of your technique and not stress too much over the pieces going in the right direction.

I will be using 10 yards of a white polycotton blend poplin fabric as the base for this dress. (or go by the back of your sewing pattern for fabric requirements). You’ll also need appropriate undergarments so be sure to get around 8 yards of voile or batiste (cotton blend if you don’t like ironing). Also, pick up 2- 4 yards of canvas that matches the color of your outer fabric (this will be a facing on the hem to protect the skirt as it drags on the ground). If you are doing the raised collar that I am incorporating into my design then you’ll need to use some buckram and fine gauge wire to help it stand up. We'll discuss the mask in later installments.